Wave Trajectory Study on the Coast of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, Indonesia: A Numerical Model Approach
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.9744/ced.20.1.30-34Keywords:
Numerical model, shoaling, wave distribution, refraction, trajectory.Abstract
A numerical model of wave trajectory using shoaling and refraction formula was proposed in the coastal waters of Lhoknga, Aceh Besar, Indonesia. The developed model used a two dimensional (2D) numerical methods for wave trajectory with the input of wave height and period; 0.62 m and 8 second for high tide and 0.47 m and 6 second for low tide. This model was tested on site during low tide and high tide conditions for verification. The purpose of this numerical study is to trace the distribution of wave trajectory because of shoaling, wave breaking, and wave refraction. The model determines the wave height and crest pattern of the ray wave trajectory. The simulation result shows the pattern of the wave propagation at Lhoknga beach moves from the northwest to the east and south of the coast. The model also informs that the maximum wave height during high tide condition is 1.72 m and 1.31 m during low tide condition. The result indicates that the coast of Lhoknga has moderate wave conditions caused by a gentle beach bathymetry slope.
References
Rizal, S., Haridhi, H.A., Wilson, C.R., Hasan, A., and Setiawan, I., Community Collection of Ocean Current Data: An Example from Northern Aceh Province, Indonesia, SPC Traditional Marine Research Management and Knowledge Information Bulletin, 31, 2013, pp. 3-11.
Irham, M. and Setiawan, I., The Study of Flow Resulting from Wave on Lhonga Beach, Aceh Besar, Omni Akuatika, 13(1), 2017, pp. 5-12.
Anoop, T.R. and Kumar, V.S., Spatial and Temporal Variation of Surface-waves in Shallow Waters along the Eastern Arabian Sea, Ocean Engineering, 81, 2014, pp. 150-157.
Irham, M. and Setiawan, I., The Numerical Model of the Sediment Distribution Pattern at Lampulo National Fisheries Port, IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environment Science, 106 012067, 2018, pp. 1-6.
Jeschke, S. and Wojtan, C., Water Wave Animation via Wavefront Parameter Interpolation, ACM Transactions on Graphics, 34(3), 2015, Article 27:1-27:14.
Montblanc, T.F., Quinn, R., Izquierdo, A., and Bethencourt, M., Evolution of a Shallow Water Wave-dominated Shipwreck Site: Fougueux (1805), Gulf of Cadiz, Geoarcheology, 31(6), 2016, pp. 487-505.
Medina, G.G., Haller, H.T.O., and Rugiero, P., Wave Resource Assessment in Oregon and Southwest Washington, USA, Renewable Energy, 64, 2014, pp. 203-214.
Goncalves, M., Martinho, P., and Soares, C.G., Wave Energy Conditions in the Western French Coast, Renewable Energy, 62, 2014, pp. 155-163.
Setiawan, I., Ilhamsyah, Y., Miswar, E., and Haddrevi, A., A Prediction Study of Wave Propagation before and after Tsunami in Ulee Lheue Coastal Waters, Aceh, Indonesia, International Symposium Land Use after the Tsunami-Supporting Education, Research and Development in the Aceh Region, 2008, pp. 249-254.
Irham, M., Fadla, Y., and Setiawan, I., The Spatial Distribution of Suspended Sediment Analysis along Krueng Cut River, Banda Aceh, IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environment Science, 106 012066, 2018, pp. 1-6.
Soomere, T. and Vika, M., Simulated Wave-driven Sediment Transport along the Eastern Coast of the Baltic Sea, Journal of Marine Systems, 129, 2014, pp. 96-105.
Barnard, P.L., Schoellhamer, D.H., Jaffe, B.E., and McKee, L.J., Sediment Transport in the San Francisco Bay Coastal System: An Overview, Marine Geology, 354, 2013, pp. 3-17.
Zurkinden, A.S., Ferri, F., Beatty, S., Kofoed, J.P., and Kramer, M.M., Non-linear Numerical Modeling and Experimental Testing of a Point Absorber Wave Energy Converter, Ocean Engineering, 78, 2014, pp. 11-21.
Gomes, E.R., Mulligan, R.P., Brodie, K.L., and McNinch, J.E., Bathymetric Control on the Spatial Distribution of Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone of a Natural Beach, Coastal Engineering, 116, 2016, pp. 180-194.
Westfield, P., Richter, K., Maas, H.G., and Weib, R., Analysis of the Effect of Wave Patterns on Refraction in Airborne Lidar Bathymetry, The International Archives of the Photogrammetry, Remote Sensing, and Spatial Information Sciences, Volume XLI-B1, XXIII ISPRS Congress, 2016. pp. 133-139.
Swift, D.J.P., Coastal Sedimentation, Chapter 14, In Stanley, D.J. and Swift, D.J.P., Marine Sediment Transport and Environmental Management, John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1976.
Koutitas, C.G., Mathematical Models in Coastal Engineering, Pentech Press Limited, London, 1988.
Ippen, A.T., Estuary and Coastline Hydrodynamics, McGraw-Hill, New York, 1966.
Dean, R. and Dalrymple, R., Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers and Scientist, Prentice Hall Press, 1984.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Authors who publish with this journal agree to the following terms:- Authors retain the copyright and publishing right, and grant the journal right of first publication with the work simultaneously licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License that allows others to share the work with an acknowledgement of the work's authorship and initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are able to enter into separate, additional contractual arrangements for the non-exclusive distribution of the journal's published version of the work (e.g., post it to an institutional repository or publish it in a book), with an acknowledgement of its initial publication in this journal.
- Authors are permitted and encouraged to post their work online (e.g., in institutional repositories or on their website) followingthe publication of the article, as it can lead to productive exchanges, as well as earlier and greater citation of published work (See The Effect of Open Access).